Monthly Archive for December, 2009

First Foot Forward: New Year’s customs and manners

first-foot-forward-new-years-customs-and-manners

Unlike in the current day, when New Year’s Eve has developed into an occasion to test the properties of alcohol as an emetic, in the Victorian era, New Year’s Eve celebrations tended to be more musical than alcoholic in nature, although as the century progressed, there is evidence of rather less genteel behaviour being exhibited at public gatherings. The fact that Church authorities at St Paul’s in London decided against continuing the tradition of bell-ringing at midnight suggests that the crowds had become less interested in quiet enjoyment than in raucous entertainments.

It should be noted that crowds continued to gather, perhaps replacing the sound of the bells with musical entertainments of their own, although whether they featured traditional New Year’s carols, or versions of Eskimo Nell, history does not divulge. Let us imagine hearty and wholesome folk tunes, then, like the following:

To-night it is the New Year’s night, to-morrow is the day
And we have come for our right and for our ray
As we used to do in King Henry’s day
Sing, fellows, sing Hagmen heigh!

New Year’s (charmingly known as Hogmanay, or even more charmingly as Hegmena, in Scotland) was a quintessentially Scottish celebration; the passion for all things Scottish (including, but not limited to Mr Brown) cultivated by the Queen and passed on as a fashion to her subjects, is suggested as one of the reasons for the rise in popularity in New Year’s celebrations across the Empire. In earlier eras, New Year’s was the time for gift giving and the payment and rewarding of loyal servants and subjects. Court records as far back as Edward III document New Years gifts both given and received by the sovereign.

This custom of New Year’s gifts was still common in Victorian times; tied to it is the idea that something must enter the house on New Year’s Day before anything leaves it. Traditional gifts were often symbolic of prosperity in the coming year – bread, salt and coal, perhaps a green branch or plant (perhaps symbolising health and growth), and whiskey.

The first person across the threshold on that day should bring a such a gift, and no cheating, such as having a party guest go outside and then come in again after the stroke of midnight. The identity (or perhaps more accurately, the characteristics) of the first person across the threshold were the subject of a number of folk customs, or superstitions.

Victorians, keen navel-gazers and collectors of folk trivia, wrote, in response to a call for information about First Foot customs and superstitions in Folklore, and the results of the correspondence were summarized in a table by John Rhys and T.W.E Higgins in the June 1892 edition. Although customs do vary widely from region to region, it is safe to say that a flat-footed bearded red-headed woman would be unlikely to receive any invitations for January 1.

In some rural areas, this tradition was taken so seriously that newspapers reported women wandering the streets at all hours after midnight, being forced to wait until their fathers or brothers came home before they were allowed to cross the threshold.

Interestingly, while the table and the strict observance of the custom of the First Foot might lead readers to infer it was a medieval or ancient tradition, it is actually traceable only to 1850 or so, making it an authentically Victorian practice.

New Year’s gifts traditionally exchanged after the first foot were often symbolic of wealth: gilded nutmegs, oranges stuck with cloves, and papers of pins all have clear connections to money and coins. Another tradition tied to the idea of promoting prosperity in the coming year included the belief that a person, no matter how young, should have money in his or her pocket on New Year’s day, or risk poverty.

Among the things that were unlucky on the first day of the year were throwing out ashes (the hearth should be cleaned before midnight on the 31st, so that a new fire could be laid), doing laundry specifically (presumably because this required the throwing out of dirty water), or any kind of work in general. Also unlucky was having the fire leave the house, either in the form of a lantern or candle being carried out, or having the fire in the stove or hearth go out.

The idea of one’s actions at the turn of the year setting the course for the next 12 months seems to be deeply ingrained into many of these traditions and beliefs. It is interesting to think about how they appear to have evolved into a practice of determining one’s own actions by making resolutions. Victorians focussed more on predicting events to come than resolving to shape them. Divination games, like reading ashes or tea leaves, were popular, as was the practice of “dipping” into the Bible to find a verse that would predict the course of the new year.

Another predictive tradition is that whatever one is doing at the time the bells chime midnight, is what one will be doing for the most part of the new year; this is no doubt in part responsible for the tradition of staying up at least until midnight – lying in bed might predict illness or incapacity.

So, perhaps rather than resolving to read more improving literature, drink less and exercise more, one should ring in the new year while simultaneously reading and riding an exercise bicycle and drinking water.

Christmas Punch

christmas-punch

For Christmas dinner this year, I wanted to make a traditional Victorian punch.  My first step was Mrs. Beeton’s to get an idea for what was expected.  Her recipe is pretty standard.  (paragraph 1839)

  • 1/2 pint of rum
  • 1/2 pint of brandy
  • 1/4 lb. of sugar
  • 1 large lemon
  • 1/2 teaspoonful of nutmeg
  • 1 pint  of boiling water

OK, fair enough.  Half spirits and the other half water served hot with sugar, spice, and lemon.  That’s pretty-much a modern toddy recipe.  But after the punch recipe, Mrs.  Beeton goes on to list other ways of making punch.  She’s got everything from the same recipe except chilled, to punches based on wine, substituting 19th century lemon flavoring for the lemon, and even a recipe for mint juleps.  Hmmm, it sounds like I can I make whichever one I want and not go far wrong.

Punch recipes were brought to England from India early in the 1600s.  The basic recipe called for some type of booze, sweetener, citrus, water, and tea or spice.  Most punch in England was based on wines or on spirits native to Europe like brandy or whiskey.  But Jamaican rum was incorporated after it became available around 1655.  And punch recipes had traveled to the New World, returning as cocktails like the mint juleps Beeton mentions.

Hmm, so by Victorian times, punch could be hot or cold, based on wine or spirits, and incorporate a wide variety of mixers.  It could even have referred to a classic cocktail like a flip or the almost direct descendant of punch, the sour.  In that case, I believe I’ll have to make them all.  For the holidays, I decided to start with a classic Planter’s Punch, because I wanted something cold.  And all of the ingredients would have been available in a Victorian kitchen.

  • 6 parts rum
  • 3 parts lemon
  • 1 part grenadine ← This ingredient might be a stretch as the history of grenadine is a bit murky, but raspberry syrup would have been available which is pretty close in flavor and appearance.
  • dash bitters

And here’s the finished drink in all its glory.  It was delicious.

Planter's Punch

Here’s a flaming version of punch, which I need to try.  Everything’s better when it’s on fire.

Introduction and Christmas 2009

introduction-and-christmas-2009

My goal for 2010 is to explore Victorian cookery though the recipes in a classic of the era, Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management, henceforth referred to as “Beeton’s” or “Mrs. Beeton’s.” I am using an out-of-print, unabridged 1969 facsimile of the first edition. I am going to prepare a meal from this book weekly as an informal but sumptuous family-style supper, and will crank up the fanciness for special occasions like parties or holidays.

My goal is not to kill myself always making everything from scratch. I know the Victorians jumped at shortcuts and conveniences when they could (like a staff of eight, ho ho), and I will too, when it seems necessary. When I want to go crazy and make stock and candy my own orange peel and basically do the work of a staff of servants all by myself, I will. I am going to make some food that is uncommon on our tables now–I will make aspics, will attempt to source less-common game, and will explore the world of organ meats, something I’ve avoided in the past. I think this will fulfill one of my primary goals, which is to amuse myself.

I did a three-course Victorian-style meal for Christmas, based on two different December menus that are presented in Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management. If you have an interest in cookery and were raised eating Western European-style cuisine, Victorian cooking is not going to be that out there.

There are a few things I’ve noticed about the December menu, and the recipes in general. It sounds extremely obvious, but I am used to doing whatever I want, whenever I want, with any food I want. Your typical modern general cookbook is going to have variations on dishes from all over the world, or will combine cuisines.

If I felt like making a fresh strawberry dessert yesterday, I certainly could have, though the results would probably not be as delicious as the same dessert in June. I understand the Victorians were fond of hot houses and greenhouses and even had access to exotic foods like pineapple if they were wealthy enough and were interested in pursuing in cultivating tropical fruit. Beeton’s is directed at a more general audience and seems to have been affordable to the masses, so the recipes and menus have a seasonal focus. There are even asides in the recipes, such as “when parsley is not available.”

In a nutshell, what this means is that a December menu is going to focus heavily on game, onions, and other root vegetables. Here is the menu for my dinner:

Christmas Menu '09

I served five people and cherrypicked from menus 2116 and 2118, but ultimately decided to roast a stuffed duck, because they are delicious and I hadn’t made one in yonks. Most recipes were scaled WAY back because originally I planned to serve two people and a preschooler, but lo, my sister and her husband did not have plans and so they came to dinner. Of course with a full-sized duck and pudding in the offing, there were little tastes of something, and loads of others.

A Whole Stuffed Duck

I asked everyone to be very honest and restaurant-critic-y, because I was more interested in the true take on recipes rather than fluffing my ego because I’d worked for hours preparing dinner. Hits were the béchamel, which, as I mentioned in a Christmas Day blog post, was different than what you see now, with stock, arrowroot (I used cornstarch), and cream as a base, rather than flour, butter and milk. Same principle (fat, thickener, dairy), but remixed. The sole in cream sauce and fruit-ices (one part cream to one part mashed/pureed fruit, sugar to taste) was also declared a success, making creamy dairy the winner of the day.

The meal was very heavy on “breadcrumb,” which meant croquette coating, duck stuffing, and pudding component. I decided not to go all medieval on dinner and bought a couple loaves of “pain paysan,” a loaf made by a local company that seemed French-bready–no bells and whistles, just a nice chewy white bread that would probably hold up to being coating and stuffing. I could not bear to stuff a duck with crumbs (ugh, the resultant sog) so I chopped them into small cubes.

Plum Pudding-Now with 100% Fewer Plums

The most interesting part of this for anyone who is into this level of napkin-gazing was the unexpected. I have never prepared rabbit, and I was shocked at how little I was advised to actually eat off it–back legs and saddle. As I write this, the rest of the once-raw carcass is becoming stock along with the cooked duck leavings.

That is one sexy MF Rabbit

The rabbit led to the other big surprise for me–the mulligatawny soup. I did not expect it to be half as tasty as it was. It called for “pounded almonds” to be added at the end, I reckon as thickener, and I did the best I could with some almonds and the food processor. I served it over rice, as Beeton’s suggests. Since that was my favorite, I will reproduce it here with my notes, and I will list the rest of what I made with the paragraph numbers [n.b. Link to be added to forthcoming menu page], which is how Beeton’s is organized.

Mulligatawny Soup

2 tablespoons of curry powder
6 onions (I used 3; 6 would not be too many)
1 clove of garlic (I used 6)
1 oz. pounded almonds
a little lemon-pickle, or mango-juice, to taste
1 fowl [smaller] or rabbit
4 slices lean bacon
2 quarts medium stock (this refers to quality, I used Pacific Brand chicken broth)

Slice and fry onions of a nice color; line the stewpan with the bacon [I chopped the bacon and fried everything else in the subsequent drippings, dropping the bacon into the stewpot I used]; cut the rabbit or fowl into small joints and slightly brown them [I tossed the rabbit in flour and lightly fricassed the chunks]; put in the fried onions, the garlic [I minced and gave it a quick panfry as well] and simmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when the meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter [I added the curry powder with the stock]; add it to the soup with the almonds, which must first be pounded with a little of the stock [it was fine just stirred in]. Put in seasoning or lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste [I topped with a dollop of homemade curried green tomato pickle], and serve boiled rice with it.

Time–two hours. [This is about how long I stewed it.]

Related Links:

Complete Searchable Mrs. Beeton’s (Whole chapters posted, so you have to kind of know what you are looking for.)

How to Joint and Prepare a Rabbit for Cooking
Part One
| Part Two

History of Mulligatawny Soup

My Complete Christmas Set (with family mixed in with food)